I always wanted to drive the Atlantic Coast of County Clare and as always take in a Lighthouse on the way, in this case Loop Head Lighthouse.
So on the 28th of September I and my fellow adventurer headed across the country again towards the City of Galway. It was a beautiful evening and the bi-annual Ryder Cup of golf had started that day. We were hoping to fit in some viewing at critical stages over the weekend at various locations along the way.
It was motorway most of the way until we turned south west at Athenry.
We headed to the coast through Kilcolgan before stopping in Kinvara. We had visited Kinvara before years earlier when after playing golf at Lahinch we had stopped for a pint before returning to our base in Galway city. Kinvara is a beautiful little village with a very picturesque harbour which leads into Kinvara Bay. As a critical time was approaching we headed into a local bar “Sextons” to see how the Ryder Cup was progressing. There were two customers in the bar with the owner, and the golf taking place was not a priority or a cause of any concern. Dec asked if they had the required SKY channel and to his great relief a SKY Box was visible high on a wall beside the TV. Mrs Sexton was happy to hand over all the remotes in the bar and Dec got to work locating the relevant channel and turning the volume to the appropriate level.
We had effectively taken over this little bar but all were happy to see some excitement that evening.
We settled into place at the bar and ordered two bottles of lager. When we had been updated on the days events and were confident of the overall outcome we headed out again.
We had passed Dunguaire Castle on the way into the village and had promised to return. However the evening was so good we changed plan and headed back to the castle to take some photographs. This attraction is obviously very popular with tours as there was a special bus park with car park adjacent to the castle on a very busy corner. The tour buses kept pulling in, unloading the tourists for a short stay at the castle.
The castle itself was built in a formidable setting overlooking the bay. The beautiful evening added to its historic credentials and it appeared more regal than ever.
The attraction is well worth a stop but be careful crossing the road to the castle itself as footpaths are only provided on the castle side close to the castle.
We then headed towards our accommodation for the night, Hylands Burren Hotel in Ballyvaughan. This was a short but scenic drive along the north coast of Co. Clare.
On reaching Ballyvaughan, we quickly came across the hotel. We received a very friendly welcome from David, who directed us to our room. The room was very comfortable. The hotel had a very friendly and warm feeling about it and we were looking forward to our stay.
We quickly headed back out as sunset would take place in the next hour or so. I had been advised to visit Poulnabrone Portal Dolmen and around sunset would be a wonderful time to take a photograph. So we headed out into the Burren.
The Burren is a region of County Clare in the southwest of Ireland. It’s a karst landscape of bedrock incorporating a vast cracked pavement of glacial-era limestone, with cliffs and caves, fossils, rock formations and archaeological sites.
Poulnabrone Dolmen is a portal tomb – one of approximately 172 in Ireland – located in the Burren, County Clare, Ireland. It dates back to the Neolithic period, probably between 4200 BC and 2900 BC. It is situated 8 km south of Ballyvaughan, 9.6 km north-west of Kilnaboy.
We arrived as the sun was going down and a number of tourists were there for the same reason. The Burren while being barren and unwelcoming was beautiful in the evening sun. In the rain and wind it would not be so welcoming.
We unpacked our cameras for the first piece of action and took the short walk from the car park to the Dolmen. For the 45 minutes we were there the landscape and the light around the Dolmen was changing every minute. The serious camera carrying tourists were taking photographs from every angle around the Dolmen and everyone was anxious to stay out of shot for the person beside or across from them. The cooperation at this magnificent time of the evening was palpable. Everyone was relaxed and enjoying the event happening before us. The light was fading and the Dolmen was revealing its amazing structure. You could only wonder how the Dolmen was constructed at that time in history. Some engineering!
After a highlight of our trip it was time to hit the road again as we were determined to tour some of the Burren before darkness.
On returning to the car park we were met by an American tourist who enquired cheekily “Is this where they sacrifice the virgins?” Dec was quick to reply “Yes every year – you missed a great night last year”. We continued to walk as if we were all serious.
I had engaged earlier at the car park with a jewellery maker at his stall. He was cleverly dressed as a Druid, long animal skin coat with the necessary grey hair and beard. He had the whole car park to himself and I am sure he provided an interesting attraction for the tourist coaches as they pulled in to see the Dolmen. He was anxious to sell some product before wrapping up. While purchasing a wrist band we discussed his background and the area close by. He was Tom from Dublin, and had moved here to this stress free lifestyle. He agreed to some photographs and advised us of the best bars with music in or around Ballyvaughan for the night ahead.
We ventured further into the Burren on a loop that would bring back into Ballyvaughan. We therefore drove into Lisdoonvarna which was enjoying the last weekend of the famous “Matchmaking Festival”.
Matchmaking is an Irish tradition that’s as old as time. It began in Lisdoonvarna when visiting gentry came to ‘take the waters’ at this spa town and looked to match their children with someone suitable from the upper classes. Parents would bring their children together at social gatherings, sporting events and musical evenings – and all being well, courtships would blossom.
The town was very busy with people making their ways in and out of the various hotels and entertainment venues. The activity was in stark contrast to the peaceful Burren we had just driven in from.
We then headed directly to Ballyvaughan through or down Corkscrew Hill. This is a winding road down from a height with hairpin corners that encourage the rally driver in you. Thankfully I was driving a campervan and Dec had already warned me against any erratic driving. I did have a rally experience in a Subaru Impreza WRX a number of years ago and would love to have the same car for a day on this hill.
When arriving in Ballyvaughan we decided to seek out a good restaurant. We had seen signs for “Monks Seafood Restaurant” and it had very good reviews. The restaurant was situated down at the harbour on the coast road looking out to the bay.
The food and service were excellent. The restaurant was a perfect design to accommodate large groups and also cater for intimate dining. This is a very popular restaurant with the locals which is always a good sign. Our server was very helpful and courteous but did ignore Dec when he was very anxious to order food and drink. This provided plenty of banter for the night and Dec saw the funny side, eventually. An excellent restaurant and a must visit if in the area.
We headed back to the hotel for a few drinks. Hylands Burren Hotel is a lovely country village hotel and the bar was quite impressive. However it was very quiet so we ventured out onto the street and heard music coming from “Greenes Bar”, next door. We found a busy little bar with live traditional music. This is a traditional bar with a modern feeling and the atmosphere was brilliant. Another Ballyvaughan find.
We rose early next morning to take the coast road around Black Head and south down towards Doolin and Lahinch.
The breakfast in Hylands Hotel was very good and freshly prepared and so we set off for a busy day.
The harbour at Ballyvaughan was very beautiful on this saturday morning and a Galway Hooker was tied up at the end of the harbour. A beautiful setting against Ballyvaughan Bay. We headed out the coast road around Black Head. The sea was very dramatic against rock features that protected this Atlantic Coast.
The Burren was spectacular even as the weather began to turn. The warm jackets and jelly beans were required as we stopped at different points to climb across the stone walls with cameras at the ready. The expanse of stone walls even in fields of rock is thought provoking. Imagine the man hours involved in marking out one field.
Our next stop was Fanore Beach, a hidden gem along this rugged coastline. The weather was quite winter like at this stage of the day but we walked through the dunes to the hidden beach. A very popular place also for mobiles home between the dunes. The sand is quite coarse but a darker shade than expected. A very clean beach.
We then drove into the village of Doolin where we had spent a number of weekends when we were much younger. The stories were compared and the memories corrected.
We headed to Doolin Port where the ferrry operated the cross sea route to Inisheer (The smallest of the Aran islands). The activity at the port was amazing especially on such a day when the sea was quite turbulent. The car park was full and Coaches seem to roll in by the minute and after all passengers had disembarked , the coach would park at the bottom of the car park. The ferry departs every fifteen/ thirty minutes. A very good place to start if visiting all islands.
There is a great view across to the Cliffs of Moher from the port even on this dull and windy day.
The Cliffs of Moher are sea cliffs located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region. They run for about 14 kilometres. At their southern end, they rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres (702 ft) just north of O Briens’s Tower, a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs, built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien. The Cliffs are also a “signature point” on the official Wild Atlantic Way tourist trail.
We arrived at about 12 noon and the crowds were starting to swell. This is such a popular attraction that crowds can be a problem especially when walking the cliffs in each direction from the visitor center. When walking on one side, the movement of people on the other side seems ant like, as they follow each other towards the highest point.
The Cliffs are spectacular although those with a fear of heights might take notice, that many people walk on the cliff side of the boundaries and you really would fear an accident when you are walking along. You would have to worry about the idea of selfies when people are standing as close to the cliff edge as possible. Further safety measures may have to be taken if numbers continue to increase at certain times.
The visitor center is very modern and built into the hill side as if always there. You always leave the cliffs with a sense of wonder and pleasure. The car park was starting to fill when we departed.
We headed towards our next destination, Lahinch though Liscannor. Lahinch is another place we used to visit when in our early twenties and we enjoyed many a good night in “Kenny’s Bar”, which is still thriving.
On the way into Lahinch, you pass the famous golf course, which we had the pleasure to play a number of years ago. This course is the setting for next years Irish Open. This is a very good course. One of the signature holes is a blind par three. It is told that the local caddies have a friend positioned close to this green when they are caddying for the many American golfers. When the golf shot is taken by the golfer, the golfer can only see the marker on the hill and is happy that his or her ball has landed on or close to the green. The caddy’s friend will then covertly help the ball into the hole, thus ensuring a hole in one for that player. Obviously when the player comes around to the green, the ball cannot be seen. Eventually someone decides to look into the hole and there and behold the ball is resting, without any guilt.
The ensuing celebration always results in additional tips for the caddies in the group and a free bar for all in the bar of the clubhouse. Who said golf was an honest game!!
We head towards the seafront which always brings back very fond memories, as we used to walk here to clear any hangovers, which was often during a weekend.
One weekend we traveled to Lahinch in a 1970 VW Beetle. Those days when you set off on a long journey like that the eventual destination was never guaranteed.
The first thing we noticed was the substantial coastal erosion work that had taken place over the last few years. The beach front was protected with rock boulders that were the size of a very small car, significant. This sea front had taken a horrible battering by the sea in the great storms and the town itself had suffered structurally and financially during this period. The whole beach had received the treatment as far as you could see towards Liscannor.
However the beach was busy with every type of water sport being enjoyed. We would return later to search out a restaurant.
We headed down the coast to Spanish Point where we were staying for the night.
We pulled into the Bellbridge House Hotel at around 1pm. Our room was not ready so we adjourned to the bar to watch some live sport. Unfortunately there was a funeral gathering being served but the staff were very friendly and tended to our needs also. While waiting for our room the funeral party moved on and were quickly replaced by a wedding party who were planning a long celebration. The whole atmosphere in the bar changed in an instant.
The hotel is very well run and takes everything in its stride.
Unfortunately the big rugby match (Leinster v Connacht) was not available in the hotel so we ventured in to Milltown Malbay to find a suitable bar.
Hillery’s Bar is on the Main Street and had a welcoming feel when we entered just before kick off. The locals were more than accommodating and provided a space in front of the tv, especially as we were from the province of the enemy. As I was driving Dec assured me that the pints were wonderful. The craic was good and the result was never in doubt. Hillery’s Bar is highly recommended if in this area.
We then headed back to Lahinch to search out a restaurant. We had seen a busy seafront restaurant on the way out of the town earlier called “The Tasty Station”, so we ventured in to sample the menu. What this restaurant lacked in a modern fit out it fully made up for in the service and food. The seafood pasta was amazing and the atmosphere very pleasant. A good value meal in a very well run restaurant.
We headed back to the hotel where I could have a pint and the entertainment was in full flow. The hotel was full of weekend visitors apart from the wedding which was in full flow in the adjacent function room. We would enjoy breakfast the next morning in this function room without a sign of the celebrations that had taken place hours beforehand. We eventually retired to bed.
We started off early next morning having breakfast in the function room which was full use a few hours earlier for the wedding. There was no sign of the previous night’s festivities. A very well prepared breakfast set us up for a busy day ahead.
We headed down the coast towards our main objective , Loop Head Lighthouse. The weather was stormy and the Atlantic Ocean was showing its power at every viewing opportunity.
We passed through Doonbeg, which we would explore on the way back and into Kilkee. The town is popular as a seaside resort. The horseshoe bay is protected from the Atlantic Ocean by the Duggerna Reef. The town was still sleeping when we pulled up beside the strand. One brave soul was swimming in the sea. You can still envisage the strand being a very busy place in the height of the summer.
We then headed towards Loop Head and the impressive Lighthouse protecting the sea craft sailing around or close to this head. The Lighthouse can be seen from a distance while driving to the furthest point of this narrow headland.
We arrived as the staff were preparing the Lighthouse for the daily visitors. We were offered the first tour as the weather really deteriorated. As in other Lighthouse visits the lady explaining the history of the Lighthouse was very informative and we were able to fully discuss the differences between other lighthouses in relation to lighting methods and current use. On the balcony of the Lighthouse, the storm surrounding the headland could be fully experienced and gives a glimpse of the hard life that must have been lived by those that who lived and worked at these lighthouses.
There was a slight lull in the weather when we were investigating the grounds of the lighthouse to allow some great photographs.
This is the third major Lighthouse visited and there is an attraction to the location and indeed the very buildings that is quite captivating. Maybe its the whole safety and protection element to lighthouses but the locations are wholly amazing also. Every lighthouse has its own history and the tours if available can totally immerse you in the past.
We were told we had officially become Pharologists (those who study or are enthused by lighthouses).
After an hour or so we headed back up the coast, stopping after a short journey to see the Bridges of Ross. The Bridges of Ross were a trio of spectacular natural sea arches – at least until two of them fell into the sea. Today, even though only one ‘bridge’ remains, the name persists in the plural. The remaining sea arch is a wonder when as we did you witness the anger of the sea battering the rock structures around the remaining bridge. The remaining bridge will be lost some day but if you can visit before this happens it is worth the journey. Even though the weather was rough there were many visitors exploring and enjoying the entertainment provided by the persistent waves.
We headed to our final stop, Doonbeg. We are both golfers and this happended to be the last day of the Ryder Cup 2018. Where else to experience some of the live action but in the Trump Doonbeg Resort.
A number of years ago we had visited the Trump Turnberry Resort in Scotland. While visiting in walking gear we had been made very welcome, encouraged to tour the clubhouse and enjoy excellent food in the bar restaurant.
We were treated to the same welcome in Doonbeg. The golf course looks amazing even on this windy and wet day. Many players were out enjoying a round. The resort is like a small town. We found the bar/ restaurant and a table in front of the large tv. There were many Americans there that day so it was easy to encourage some banter around the final day matches, which the American team were losing badly. There were plenty of American groans to be heard. A very funny aspect of the TV that we were watching was that there seemed to be a time delay on the TV most of the Americans were watching so we could celebrate before they saw the American putt that was missed.
The Europe Team had regained the Ryder Cup Trophy outside Paris. What a great way to finish our amazing tour of the Clare Coastline.
