Valentia Island and Hidden Kerry
On the 9th of August 2019 I and my traveling friend Dec decided to head again to Co. Kerry but in particular Valentia Island and the coast close to this part of Co. Kerry. We would then travel to Killarney eventually driving through the Black Valley.
We had planned this journey for a few weeks and had booked a boat trip around Skellig Michael when we were staying close to Portmagee. Paul Devane of Skellig Michael Cruises had been recommended so we were booked for a trip at 2pm with a view to taking some photographs of the famous rock. So we headed south early with great anticipation for an adventurous few days.
The journey down south was trouble free as we had headed off very early. We headed firstly towards Limerick and then down south to County Kerry. Unfortunately when approaching County Kerry the weather turned very cloudy and a mist descended onto the fields as far as one could see. The omens were bad for a successful photography trip around Skellig Michael.
We continued towards Killorglin and unto the Iveragh Peninsula. This is the largest peninsula in south western Ireland and home to the famous Ring of Kerry. When passing Glenbeigh we took a short break to visit Rossbeigh Strand. Rossbeigh Beach is a beautiful strand extending for over 7 miles (11 Kilometres). It is a wonderful location for swimming, water sports and walking. There is also the opportunity to go horse riding on the beach much like our own local Laytown Beach.
We headed towards Cahersiveen (where we were staying for the night) and then directly to Portmagee for our planned boat trip. Unfortunately visibility was getting more difficult as we drove along Dingle Bay. I have since found out that the International Definition of fog is visibility of less than 1 kilometer and mist is between 1 and 2 kilometers, so we were definitely dealing with fog on this early afternoon. We drove into Portmagee Harbour at 1.30 pm ,which was busy as we had to park outside the village. We headed to Skellig Michael Cruises to be sadly informed that Paul Devane would not recommend today, this boat trip for photography. He was happy to take us out around the rock but we would see nothing because of the fog. We were grateful for his honesty and retired to the nearby coffee shop which was packed with tourists. We shared a table with a lovely British couple who had spent the week in the area and were enthralled by the beauty of Valentia Island. They also confirmed that the weather had been marvelous up until today – our luck! The excellent service and refreshments (coffee and cake) brought the adventure back to our journey. As with all disappointments we decided to move forward with our plans and tour Valentia Island early instead after checking into our Cahersiveen Hotel, The Kerry Coast Hotel (Main Street, Cahersiveen).
We headed across the bridge at Portmagee unto Valentia Island. We were anxious to fully tour this Island and take in Knightstown and the Valentia Island Lighthouse. On the other side of the bridge you can fully appreciate the beautiful town of Portmagee with its houses painted in vivid colours. Definitely looks like it was sponsored by some well known paint manufacturer.
First however directly across the bridge we came across the Skellig Experience Centre, which is definitely worth a visit. The Centre is constructed as if part of the landscape in a very environmentally friendly way. The Skellig Experience is designed to provide people with information on the history and archaeology of the UNESCO World Heritage site Skellig Michael. The Visitor Centre brings the magic and mystery of these famous rocks to you through graphics, film presentation, models, exhibition items, reconstruction and the sound of sea birds and lighthouse keeper ship to shore communication. The experience was very captivating as we all think of Skellig Michael as the backdrop and location of the recent Star Wars movies when the history behind the rocks is century spanning. The history of the monks fully explains the true mystery behind Skellig Michael. We may not have enjoyed our boat trip but we had learned so much about the rock before we visit this area again and enjoy that boat trip eventually. It’s always important to learn as much as possible about a location before you visit, in case you miss the really gem.
We then headed towards Knightstown heading to the northeast of the Island. The fog was still upon us which added to the sense of isolation as we traveled across the Island. Knightstown itself is one of the few ‘town-planned’ villages of Ireland. The village of Knightstown was laid out by Alexander Nimmo in 1830-31, a Master Engineer. It wasn’t built until the early 1840’s when the quarry was greatly expanded and the works were moved to Knightstown. This town really has a British feel to it. The Watchtower at the end of the road leading to the harbour area, would lead you to believe you had entered some quaint English seaside village. The hotel built close to the harbour, The Royle Valentia Hotel , dates back to the same time although some changes have been made to the facade. The harbour area and indeed the town is worth a short stay to walk and take in the history of this place. The harbour is also home to the car ferry back to the mainland at Reenard Point, as short drive west from Cahirsiveen. A beautiful location even on this foggy afternoon. To be fair the weather has lifted slightly to allow enough visibility to take some photographs.
As we left Knightstown the fog descended again. We headed west towards the Valentia Lighthouse, one of our main interests for this trip. As with all lighthouses the come into view from a far as their locations are at the extremities of any land mass protecting sea vessels. Valentia is uniquely impressive as you wind your way down the land slope towards the lighthouse. There is very little sign of life as you make this journey and we arrive at the outer walls alone. As with most lighthouses they are closed and locked. They are mostly walled and hard to access. We usually try to gain access or walk along the coast to get that photograph. There was a locked gate around five feet tall with no footholds. Dec being the younger, retired and therefore obviously the more energetic dragged himself across the gate. I was impressed, congratulated him, made an attempt at doing the same, but decided that being impaled on a heavy metal gate was not a good idea for a journey that was proving a little problematic. I headed towards the fields and eventually got to the coast adjacent to this magnificent lighthouse. We got some great photographs from both locations. When we eventually got back to the front gates, two older couples had arrived and were fully disappointed that there was no access. They were really impressed with Dec’s climb back across the gate and avoiding any serious injury. I did see a slight grimace as he walked towards the van though!!
We then headed towards Geokaun Viewpoint and the Fogher Cliffs. Geokaun Mountain is the highest mountain on Valentia Island. As we climbed towards the viewpoint the visibility descended to about 50 meters. For the last kilometer to the viewing point you had to pay a lot of attention to the road as it seemed to be taking you directly to the cliff edge. Eventually we came across a carpark , viewing point in one direction and cliffs in another. We passed a German couple returning to their car who informed us the viewing point was worth visiting as you could get a great view when the fog broke momentarily. We headed up and were rewarded with a break in the fog and the release of some sun rays. There is some view from this location out to sea and back to Bray Head on the south of the Island.
We were planning to head to Bray Head also were a signal tower is based but we were informed at the Skellig Experience that it was a two hour trek from the road end and that visibility and safety would be an issue today, so also have to leave till next time. We did see enough of Valentia Island today to satisfy our curiosity and encourage a return in the not too distant future.
We headed back to our hotel as the light started to fade. The Kerry Coast Hotel is a little jaded but provides enough friendliness and service to overcome any shortcomings. Frank’s Bar is central to the hotel and this is where we had our fish and chip dinner, which was very tasty. As it was Friday night we ventured out to see what life was about around the town. The town was a hive of activity as a local financial service firm (whose name I will not disclose) had a treasure hunt taking place around the streets.
When we ventured back to “Franks Bar” we were surprised to see that this treasure hunt was finishing in the hotel bar with the results from the various clues being disclosed. I cannot confirm if this firm had a tab or the social club were funding but the treasure hunters were really getting into the swing of things and the craic was mighty. The bar was having a bumper night and we did share this knowledge with a few vintners at home on our return. If encouraged at home the clue section may have to be simplified possibly! We settled into the corner of the bar and had a very enjoyable night. We were joined at the later part of the evening by an American (Ralf) who was visiting the town and was staying in a hotel at the end of the town. He had gone for a leisurely walk looking for some entertainment, immediately heard the laughter coming from Frank’s and came into our company. He was from Texas and his claim to fame was his daughter was working as an intern in the White House with Donald Trump. He proudly showed us her team picture from the White House but was honest in his assessment of the President’s performance and reputation. A very good man with the humor of an Irishman. We shared a few whiskeys before retiring to our respective hotels and I don’t drink whiskey!!
We rose early but slowly.
We enjoyed a substantial breakfast at the back of Frank’s Bar and headed out to look around Cahersiveen. You quickly become aware that Daniel O’ Connell was born close to Cahersiveen. Daniel O’ Connell was a famous Irish person who lived during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. He helped Catholics to win the right to become Members of Parliament. He also wanted Ireland to have its own parliament. He became known as the “Liberator” because he looked for rights for Irish people. Derrynane House was the home of Irish politician and statesman, Daniel O’Connell. It is now an Irish National Monument and part of a 320-acre National Park, which is close to the famous Derrynane Beach visited in another journey on this site.
There is a museum in the town based in the most unusual building, which seems to have been transported from Bavaria with its high turret. The building was originally used as a barracks. The museum tells not only the history of Daniel O Connell but of many of the local people who have left their mark. The barracks were restored a number of years ago and there are many theories about the actual building – were building plans mixed up with plans for a building in India, such is the spectacle of this building alone. There is also a Daniel O Connell trail which commences at the barracks and carries on around Cahersiveen. In the centre of Cahersiveen you will find the Daniel O’Connell memorial church. Built between 1888 – 1902 this church is the most dominant feature/landmark in the town. It is one of the few catholic churches in the world dedicated to a lay person (Daniel O’ Connell) . Cahersiveen is definitely steeped in history.
We headed out to the west towards Cahergall Stone Fort. When we arrived at the car park we were met by an enterprising local, who had his van door opened to reveal a young lamb. On engaging with him we were informed that he was providing the perfectly groomed lambe for photo opportunities for visitors, for a nominal fee ofcourse. The van was a magnet for families with young children but there was a little resistance to the “nominal fee” when it was quickly introduced at the photograph suggestion. The local was a little too forward after getting the childrens’ attention so business was quiet slow on our entrance and return.
Cahergall was built around 600AD. It is well worth a visit. The current structure has undergone some reconstruction and while the purist may say it is too “clean and pure” it is an impressive site. With walls approx 6 m high and some 3 m thick this dry stone wall fort is one of the best examples of an early medieval stone forts to be found on the ring of Kerry. The fort is perfectly constructed as you can climb up the steps on each level to the top level, to get a great view of the nearby Ballycarberry Castle and Valentia island off to the South. There is a second fort, Leacanabuile Stone Fort close by which is partly reconstructed.
We then headed to Ballycarberry Castle which while impressive from afar, is disappointing up close. Disappointing in that it is on private lands with many signs to prevent any visitor investigating the castle from a safe distance. Situated near the waters’ edge, this castle with its’ ivy covered tower house was once home to the McCarthy Clan and built sometime in the 15th century. It is probably the largest and most impressive castle built on the peninsula of Iveragh. However the castle will deteriorate over time without some conservation work. Still worth a short stop and the perfect location for a sunset photograph.
We then headed to Reenard Point to see where the ferry takes off from to Knighstown on Valentia Island. We had been told about a great sea food restaurant on the pier at Reenard Point, “O’Neills The Point”. Seemingly the best seafood chowder in County Kerry. We will have to try next time. On approaching Reenard Point we were waved down by a young lad , open shirt no jacket. He was going to catch the ferry to Knightstown. We duly obliged and were concerned about the weather which had turned a little wintery and windy. This did not bother our passenger as he headed out of our van and to the front of the vehicle queue which had gattered. Oh to be young again as we watched him run onto the ferry and hunker down under the captain’s station. Hope the night was worth it !!
Our next destination was the Kerry Cliffs, so we headed back towards Portmagee which was still awakening. A short journey on a very narrow road brings you to the Kerry Cliffs. The attraction is situated on private lands but a business has been cultivated around the Cliffs. There is an extensive carpark and the obligatory tea and coffee trailer, which was a sight for sore eyes and heads at this point of the day. The headed up the prepared walkway past the horses looking a little bemused in the fields. Half way to our destination the owner had constructed a number of beehive stone buildings which you can explore and this gives you a feel of the living conditions on the famous Skellig Michael. There is also information on the various birds found on the Skelligs. You eventually come to the cliffs. There are two viewing points. The viewing point on the left which looked rather exposed, was closed because of the high winds. We headed to the right and were rewarded with spectacular views from the Cliff Tops. This attraction was a total surprise as you don’t expect to see a spectacle close to the famous Cliffs of Moher. This attraction was less commercialized but impressive in its rawness. Definitely worth a visit.
We were planning to travel around the coast to Ballinskelligs, so leaving the Kerry Cliffs we were met by a road which seemed to climb in a very dangerous manner into the next mountain. This was some sight and a little scary. We were heading towards Coomanaspic Pass (we would find out later) and were relieved to get to the top of the mountain without rolling or tumbing back down. The climb was so steep you just had to follow the car in front until the road came back into view through the front window of the van. The reward however at the viewing point on the Pass is amazing as Puffin Island and the Skelligs appear though the mist and fog. This is another memorable part of the journey as we traveled through the pass and down towards Ballinskelligs. Not far from the pier and protected within Ballinskelligs Bay is the perfect strand where we stopped to enjoy. We ventured out on to the strand and had to navigate a small sea stream with well positioned rocks. This is the perfect Atlantic Strand with a distinct hint of danger from the sea. The weather improved for a short time to allow some photography. Although relatively calm on the day of our visit, you could imagine the ferocity this strand must endure in the winter months. When heading back to the van, I decided to venture across the stream closer to the end of the strand and sure enough I ended up on my knees with a substantial crack in my camera lens housing. Dec was later to recount that I was traveling across the stones quite skillfully until the last stretch and I came down one knee each side of a very jagged rock. He said it was like slow motion as I was picking the least harmful place to land. I had sore knees but things could have been a lot worse. Luckily that is all that was damaged and allowing a short time for Dec to finish his fit of laughing, we headed back inland. Its important to keep my passenger in good humor!
We had planned to stay in Killarney for the night after a long day on the road so we headed back inland towards Cahersiveen first and then into the middle of the Iveragh Peninsula. We had traveled through the Ballaghisheen Pass before (Dingle Trip) and we wanted to head this way again towards Killarney and take in the Black Valley before entering the Killarney area in the afternoon.
This is a beautiful drive and it avoids all the tourist routes. You literally can drive for miles and see no sign of human life other than the odd driver with the same plan. The Pass was as impressive on this second visit and we took in so much more, passing Ballaghisheen Forrest and following the River Inny close to its source. Raw but imperial is how I would explain this drive. We eventually traveled through the Ballaghbeama Gap before heading back north to pick up the Kerry Way and towards the Black Valley. The Kerry Way is a long-distance trail in County Kerry. It is a 214-kilometre long circular trail that begins and ends in Killarney. It is typically completed in nine days. A beautiful walk if you had the time and inclination.
The Black Valley or Cummeenduff is a remote valley at the southern end of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range in Kerry, situated south of the Gap of Dunloe and north of Moll’s Gap. it is used as a southerly access into the Gap of Dunloe. A beautiful and isolated valley in the heart of Killarney National Park. The Black Valley is also noted for being one of the last places in mainland Ireland to be connected to the electricity and telephone networks due to its remoteness, which happened in 1976. Driving through the Black Valley is an eerie but enlightening experience. The remoteness of the road and the interaction with animals and nature is truly thought provoking. How did people live and travel in this area during the last centuries. You have to stop and walk around to take the atmosphere in and drink every spoonful.
It was late afternoon and we eventually came across people again when entering the Gap of Dunloe. The Gap of Dunloe is a narrow mountain pass forged between the MacGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain by glacial flows. The river running through the gap is the river Loe from where the Gap gets its’ name. The Gap begins at Kate Kearney’s Cottage not far from Killarney. We are approaching it from the South. The road is narrow and windy and you have to pull over in many places to allow walkers or cyclists pass. There is some maneuvering fun when you come across some vehicles driving south towards The Black Valley and you must use the extra area of tarmac that has been placed at intervals. You do not want to have to reverse. The scenery is truly a pleasure in the late evening sun. Within easy walking distance from Kate Kearney’s cottage is a picturesque old bridge known as the ‘Wishing Bridge’. It is said that wishes made here really do come true!
We eventually arrive at Kate Kearney’s Cottage which is as usual a hive of activity and drive into Killarney for the night. We were staying in the Torc Hotel on the Mallow Road. A family friendly and well run hotel with very comfortable rooms. As with our last trip to Killarney we had planned a night out but as usual forgot we are now in our fifties and having experienced a late night, the previous night in Cahersiveen, we were unable to contemplate another night on the town. The joys of getting old. We instead enjoyed a very good evening meal, a few pints and an early night. For a quiet setting in Killarney we would recommend this hotel. Up early in the morning and headed home after a very busy two days on the Iveragh Peninsula. Another very enjoyable short trip in the South.
