Adventure to Westport and Connemara
My favorite place in Ireland has to be Westport and the surrounding areas. As soon as I descend the hill into Westport Town I can feel the stress levels go to zero. I have tried to visit Westport in particular every year at some time and have had the most amazing personal memories in or around this town.
I have stayed in various hotels including the Westport Plaza / Castlecourt Hotels and my very favorite the Knockranny House Hotel.
The Knockranny House Hotel is very relaxing, very efficient without any obvious effort to impress. A very well run hotel with an amazing restaurant, La Fougere. This restaurant has again won the accolade of Hotel Restaurant of the Year.
When working in the area ten years ago I enjoyed a few nights in Matt Molloy’s Bar on Bridge Street. There are many excellent traditional bars in the town so entertainment for all ages is only a walk away.
So you can see why I planned another trip to this area on the weekend of the 1st and 2nd of September.
I decided to head off alone this time, as my mate, Dec, thought I had not given him enough warning. He is the one enjoying retirement.
I also decided to sample the Airbnb experience and booked a one bedroom cottage on the pier road in Murrisk.
As before the journey can take its toll but I commence to de-stress as soon as I leave Castlebar heading for Westport.
The short distance down the hill past the Knockranny House Hotel, and into the town centre releases the smile muscles and I can fully relax and enjoy.
The center of town is always bustling with a constant stream of traffic up Bridge Street and off in every direction. I head out to check into the cottage and am warmly welcomed by my hosts Yvonne and Paul. I had emailed Yvonne beforehand to explain my intention to spend the weekend with camera in hand and if she had any ideas for an adventure they would be appreciated. Yvonne had an expansive information pack of the area in the cottage and confirmed her favorite beach to be Silver Strand. The whole Murrisk area under the shadow of Croagh Patrick is a wonderful place to live and enjoy.
I unpacked, made sure my camera bag was fully loaded and headed back into Westport for a walk around the town. As evening was closing in, I quickly checked out the town. It was as I had left it twelve months previously. On a Saturday evening the bars were busy and people were making their way to eat and find a corner to enjoy the welcoming atmosphere. The golden hour of just before sunset was fast approaching so I headed to the harbour / quay area.
This area is a fantastic location with the backdrops of Westport House in one corner and Croagh Patrick / Clew Bay in the other. Light was quickly leaving. However I took some amazing shots of both backdrops in the fading evening light.
The coast road towards Murrisk is exceptional in the evening light. I therefore headed out and on turning a corner approaching “Cronin’s Sheebeen” (a famous traditional bar and restaurant) I came across the most amazing scene out towards the bay (My featured Image). I hit the brakes and the camper van came to an emergency stop close to the pub. Customers outside were sure I had had some kind of accident. I grabbed the camera and leapt from the van across the road to take position against the bay wall, as there was no time to waste. The light was fading fast and the sun was trying to hide. I got the shot. I was also encouraged by a lady customer of the Bar who also ran from the inside of the building to take a picture on her mobile phone. She smiled as she returned to the Bar and the customers outside were equally as worried about her behaviour.
I headed bank to my base which was now in darkness. Murrisk Pier would be explored in the morning.
Up early and out to see as much of Mayo as possible and to also take in Silver Strand on the way back. Unfortunately the weather was rather wet and the forecast was something similar for the day ahead. However even in bad weather the scenery was going to be breath taking especially when there are less vehicles on the roads.
First stop was a quick visit to the pier at Murrisk, which provided another beautiful view of Clew Bay. I also had to stop at the base of Croagh Patrick to photograph the Famine Memorial and take in the base view of the mountain. In 2014 as my Daughter, Sarah, was about to sit her Leaving Certificate we agreed that we would climb Croagh Patrick to collect as much divine inspiration as possible. The mountain is climbed in three stages – Stage 1 is a laborious rock climb which tests the persons fitness and also their tenacity. On reaching the top of the first stage, you are presented with a beautiful view of Clew Bay and all the islands. It is an achievement getting to this stage and some may consider that this is enough, as i did. Stage 2 is a trouble free walk across the ridge where you can enjoy the views and fresh air (when your breathing rhythm finally returns). Then you are faced with Stage 3. This climb looks vertical from the base and the final stretch of mountain is covered in loose shale. I did insist that i had achieved quite enough and I really fancied a leisurely walk back down the mountain.
As with all daughters I was reminded that she was the one and only daughter and that I had promised that we would climb Croagh Patrick, or she may as well give up on the Leaving Certificate. I had no choice.
We then commenced the climb of Stage 3, which is very difficult as the ground is loose under foot, you have to keep looking up in case you fall off the mountain and finally there is the constant lie telling by people you meet coming down – “Not far to go” or “The summit is just around the next corner”.
After three and a half hours we walked onto the summit of Croagh Patrick. A major achievement in any lifetime and it secured Sarah’s participation in that year’s Leaving Certificate. (She actually achieved a great result – obviously divine inspiration!!).
I headed towards Louisburgh and a quick stop at Carrowmore Beach. This is my favorite beach and I have been visiting this beach for 12 years after being informed about this gem. The photograph shown above was taken on a beautiful day in 2014.
While the weather was unfortunately getting worse with heavy rain, I headed into Connemara, an amazing experience for the mind.
It was raining heavily when I drove into Doo Lough Valley, but the scenery was still inspiring. I parked beside the lough and watched the rain and mist move between the mountains. This is the most beautiful place to sit and think. When the rain subsided I did venture out to the base of the lough to take some photographs.
I headed on towards Leenane past Delphi Adventure Centre. This centre has the perfect location for all outdoor activities on land and sea. Many friends have given great recommendations for this centre and I will stay there some day soon.
A short stop at Aasleagh Falls for some photographs (set in an idyllic backdrop of the Ben Gorm). Always worth a stop and popular with fishermen.
Lennane is always beautiful as it presents the impressive Killary Harbour. Killary Harbour is Ireland’s only true fjord and it extends 16 km from the Atlantic to its head at Aasleagh below the actual falls. From the northern shore of the harbour rises Mweelrea, the highest mountain in Connacht at 814m. Lennane or its small village is the perfect setting for sunset photographs as the sky and the surrounding mountains clash in the fading orange sky.
I head around the harbour and through the Connemara National Park and come across the famous Kylemore Abbey and the fabulous grounds and gardens. The Abbey itself can be photographed across Kylemore Lough which emphasizes the amazing setting of this Abbey under the mountain on the far shores of the lough.
My furthest destination, Clifden is not far away. I have been to Clifden many times but the weather has always been poor. Unfortunately it was the same on my arrival this time.
The town was very quiet on this Sunday morning. The tourists had decided to stay in their hotels to allow this weather to improve. I decided to visit the Sky Road observation point. This is located on a road which travels out along Clifden Bay and returns to the north side of the town.
I had to travel up to the viewing point three times before the mist and rain lifted eventually unveiling this amazing view over the islands of Inisturk and Turbot and the Carrickrana Rocks. The perseverance was well worth the final reward.
I headed back into Clifden to see the tourists awake and roaming the streets again. I stopped for one of the best seafood pasta dishes in Mannion’s Bar, before a short walk around the town.
I then headed back through Connemara, to Louisburgh to find the recommended Silver Strand.
On my return to Louisburgh I headed west along the Wild Atlantic Way and watched also for signs promoting “The Lost Valley”. After approximately 30 min and with the roads at their narrowest point I came across the small car park at Silver Strand. I was glad to see a small number of cars here as I did think that this was the land that time forgot. This was the end of the road except for a narrower lane sign posted as “The Lost Valley”.
The entrance to the Strand was expansive with the sea in the far distance. This is a beautiful strand and well worth the long walk from the gated entrance. The scenery on the left is mysterious and is wrapped and protected by the Mwellrea Mountains. On the right there is a complex of dunes which were being enjoyed by the other people who knew about this place.
On getting to the sea the strand opens up and you literally are surrounded by beauty. The sea rolls in and out but does not damage the sands. The sands are clean and debris free. There is an inviting headland on the right which really deserved to be conquered, maybe next time. There will be a next time.
Unfortunately time was against me. “The Lost Valley” will have to be explored the next time also. This relatively new tourist attraction is based on a 3 hour trek through the mysterious lands belonging to the Bourke family. The lands are a working sheep farm and therefore care must be taken. The trek or tour is based around explaining the history of these lands while witnessing the remnants of stone houses, and the evidence of agriculture methods. The tour also explains the history of the people who lived on these lands and their fate down the centuries.
Time to head home and make the usual notes on a very busy two days.
The End.
