On the 16th of June 2019 my business partner asked me to join him near Ballina where he had been booked in for a fly fishing experience at Mount Falcon Estate.
I decided I would join him but take the opportunity to visit Achill Island the day before allowing me to stay on the Island for the night and hopefully get some good photographs of this Island. So I journeyed across the country again on the 15th of June.
I had been on Achill Island a number of times over the years but never really got a chance to explore the whole Island. Previously either weather or bored children had dictated the lenght and intensity of my visits. I was determined to take it all in over a 24 hour period.
I was booked into the Achill Seal Caves Caravan and Camping Park beside Dugort Beech and under the impressive Slievemore Mountain. It was going to be my first night sleeping in a campervan. So the van was expertly packed for the occasion, or so i thought.
The weather was very poor on my journey across to the West and I was not hopeful of a great evening for photographs. However about 10 miles from Mulranny the evening improved and the sky seemed to clear as if by command. It was a beautiful evening as I travelled across the bridge over the Achill Sound.
It was only 5pm so I decided to check into the caravan park and get my bearings to head back out to explore for the evening.
The staff at the Achill Seal Caves Park were excellent and could not have been any more helpful. I explained my 24 hour plan and was given a detailed map of the Island. Enda, one of the owners marked out all the places of interest and the journey times. He also explained that to the east of the strand, on high ground was a excellent location for sunset photographs of the strand and Slievemore. I would return there at sunset.
With all this information on board I headed back out to the west. I stopped at the Megalithic tomb before visiting the Deserted Village. The Deserted Village at Slievemore consists of some 80 – 100 stone cottages located along a mile long stretch of road on the southern slopes of Slievemore mountain. While some of these dwellings were occupied as summer ‘booley’ homes within living memory, the area itself is rich in archaeological artefacts including megalithic tombs dating from the Neolithic period some 5,000 years ago. Local field systems and site remnants indicate that settlement in this area dates from at least early Mediaval times.
I parked beside the cemetary and walked among the deserted dwellings on the slopes of Slievemore. You really feel like you are walking through history and wondered how people lived here so far from everything and under the mountain, which dominates this area of the Island. The evening was now a true summer evening and this location seemed perfect as you looked out to the coastline below and the Atlantic in the distance. Truly amazing as you will see from the photograph. This location is well worth a visit especially if like me you have the whole location to yourself. A place to truly lose yourself and wonder.
I then headed towards Keel in the center of Achill Island. I drove through the village towards Keem Bay which was my next location. I would explore Keel on the way back. The road to Keem Bay is not for the faint hearted as it wanders high along the coast before dramatically falling towards the Bay. During the last mile or so you really are exposed to a sharp fall towards the sea on the left hand side so there is need to concentrate on the road and ignore the fact that you must return up this road again driving on the right.
The journey however is worth every worry as the Bay appears and this idyllic location surfaces as if pulled from a magician’s hat. The beach at Keem is totally protected from the sea by Achill head on one side and Moyteoge Head on the other. There are many people in this location with a few camper vans pulled up for the night. The beach is completely flat as if undisturbed by the Atlantic and the sea is as clear as I have seen. You have to walk the beach just to experience this wonderful place. The highlight of my Achill Island visit.
After a pleasant stay and some great photographs I headed back towards Keel. The drive from the Bay was as predicted an experience of being on the edge of the Island. The fall to the right was breathtaking but dangerous. At least I did not meet any traffic coming towards the Bay so could use middle of the road when appropriate ofcourse. You have to visit Keem Bay if ever close to Achill Island.
The area around Keel offers an unrivalled array of outdoor activities. The 3km long Blue Flag beach is one of the best surfing locations in Ireland. Even at this late part of the evening the beach was busy and camp sites were a hive of activity. Several local providers offer surf board and wetsuit hire as well as surfing lessons at Keel strand. The beach is also popular for other watersports including sea kayaking, windsurfing and sailboarding.
As the evening was starting to fade I headed back to Dugort (sometimes called Doogort). Dugort is also famous for the Achill Mission (Colony).
One of Achill’s most famous historical sites is that of the Achill Mission or ‘the Colony’ at Dugort. In 1831 the Protestant Reverend Edward Nangle founded a proselytising mission at Dugort. The Mission included schools, cottages, an orphanage, a small hospital and a hotel (now the Slievemore Hotel). The ‘Colony’ was very successful for a time. The Reverend Nangle expanded his mission into Mweelin, where a ‘university’ was built. In this building, Bible readers were trained to teach the bible in Irish. The Achill Mission began to decline slowly and finally closed in the 1880’s. Edward Nangle died in 1883.
The sun was starting to hide behind Slievemore when I parked at the destination suggested earlier by Enda. I set up the camera and waited for the sun to set. The scene from this location looking across Dugort Strand (or otherwise known as Silver Strand) was breathtaking especially with the magnificent Slievemore in the background.
After the sun set had vanished from view I realized that I had not had anything to eat. Fast food from the local takeaway was excellent and I headed back to the Caravan and Camping Park. The park was full of life as the children from the various tents and campervans were intent on staying out as long as possible. I hit the shower and washroom building and settled in for a good sleep.
One thing I had not considered was the noise you experience when parked in a camping site. While no one was excessively noisey, talk and laughter seemed to be just outside the van although the culprits could be at the far end of the park. This was something I was not expecting so I decided to watch that film I had downloaded from Netflix. There was also the bedding or lack of it. I had been very confident about one blanket and a pillow but was unprepared for the chill after midnight. So in summary it was an experience but a long night.
I had my cornflakes therefore at 7am when the sun was rising and awaited the Shower block opening at 8 to have that awakening shower. It was a beautiful morning so life was not too bad!!
I will be fully prepared next time and maybe consider some alcohol before retiring at the next campsite. Overall Achill Seal Caves Camping Park is highly recommended with all the necessary amenities and the location is only magnificent.
I planned to explore the remainder of the Island this morning so I prepared the van (well tidied it) and headed out before 9am. As I passed the other awakening campervans I could see curious expressions from my fellow campers – “where is he in a rush to??”.
The morning was fresh and the sky clear and again you could see the whole Island in front of you. I drove firstly to towards Blacksod Bay and Bull’s Mouth. Here the roads are quite narrow and dead ends are common. I headed then towards the famous Atlantic Drive on the southwest of the Island. This is an amazing drive with the wild Atlantic constantly attacking the coastline. You have to occasionally stop and take it all in. The morning was perfect for such a drive.
I eventually came across Kildavnet Castle (or Grace O’Malley’s Castle) on the inland shore. The tower at Kildavnet is thought to have been constructed by the Clan O’Malley in about 1429, but is associated locally with a descendant of the original builders, Grace O’Malley or Granuaile. This legendary pirate queen is thought to have been born around 1530 and died in about 1603. The Tower at Kildavnet is one of a series of such strongholds that Granuaile established along the western seaboard (she is said to be buried in a similar tower on Clare Island) as she dominated the waters during the 16th century. The tower is literally sitting on the waters edge but fully protected within the Achill Sound.
Eventually I am back at the Achill Sound and ready to head east to meet my friend at Mount Falcon Estate. I have completed a tour of Achill Island in a day but I have to return to immerse myself further in its history and beauty. If like me you have never really explored Achill Island it has to be high on any bucket list so get there while you can still enjoy.
At around lunchtime I headed towards the Mount Falcon Estate. I had heard great reports about this Estate and was looking forward to my one night stay. I was also feeling the effects of my broken nights sleep and a bit of luxury was just what would be needed.
I headed along the coast before keeping east towards Croaghmoyle Mountain and then heading towards Pontoon, a crossing point around Lough Conn. Its is not until you get to the famous bridge at Pontoon that you can appreciate the size of this lough. Lough Conn covers about 14000 acres and is connected to the Atlantic by the River Moy via Lough Cullin to the south. The Lough is famous for its trout and salmon fishing.
Eventually I came across the N26 (Ballina to Foxford road) and found the Mount Falcon Estate approximately 10 miles from Ballina.
The entrance to the estate is impressive and this initial excitement only improves as you drive towards the hotel through the immaculate grounds, The hotel has an old world feeling. The original baronial lodge was designed by James Franklin Fuller who was also responsible for Kylemore Abbey in Connemara (and Ashford castle and Farmleigh in the Pheonix Park) I have been to Kylemore Abbey on many occasions and am always struck by the building and the amazing location.
I just entered the Hotel when my friend has completed his first fly fishing experience and lesson and we had lunch together in the main bar. The food was amazing and the whole atmosphere luxurious.
While my friend returned to the River Moy for his evening session I headed to our room for some necessary rest. My bed was in complete contrast to my sleeping place the night before. As the saying goes I was out cold before my head settled into the pillow.
When my friend returned we headed out to explore the hotel and its grounds. The evening was bright again and the estate around the hotel is magnificent. Apart from the hotel there are three accommodation developments close to the hotel. Lakeside is a development of traditional bungalows whereas Woodlands is a development of luxurious log cabins set in a circular plan which encompasses a stone tower, and finally the Courtyard which is as it sounds is housing based on the design of an old stable yard. On the evening of my visit to the Woodlands most cabins were empty but the hidden location was alive within wildlife. Rabbits and squirrels of all ages were busy getting ready for the impending nightfall. We may have been around 500 metres from the hotel but it seemed like we were in another world and nature was in control. A truly magical setting.
We then decided to head into Ballina for the evening. Unfortunately the weather was turning cold. Ballina is a town in north County Mayo and lies at the mouth of the River Moy near Killala Bay. The town is regarded as the Salmon Capital of Ireland. As my Dad had the fishing bug, we spent many summers in Ballina, so I have fond memories of the town. My favorite memory of the town, when we stayed there was attending my first live concert, Brush Shiels playing with Skid Row in his hay day live in Enniscrone.
Martin, my fly fishing friend was anxious to see other fishermen trying their luck along the river in the town. We walked along the river and stopped at the famous “Ridge Pool” to watch the mostly foreign fishermen enjoy their sport. The ridge pool is located in the heart of the town close to the road bridge. The various weirs and currents provide many fishing positions but must also provide the ideal environment to see the majestic salmon continue its journey up river. I share my fond memory of my father out in the ridge pool fully kitted out with the necessary waders. His love of fishing and the long periods he spent at this sport probably killed any interest I may have had in this sport, unfortunately. This evening had brought back many fond memories though, especially as this weekend was the second anniversary of his death. Amazingly when the journey was planned, Ballina had not been on the itinerary, as Achill Island was my main destination. Life has a funny way of bringing you back to what was and is important. We raised a glass to my Dad later that evening.
As the light was fading we made the necessary enquiry to find ” Dillon’s Restaurant”. The restaurant is based in an old courtyard and we did not expect many patrons on this Sunday evening. We were wrong and we joined the short queue which was ably marshaled by the Manager. I must admit I love to see a Maitre D” fully in control of a restaurant and this Manager was a joy to watch. If he did not know the customer he was a friend after five minutes such was his attention. We were sitting at our table after 20 minutes and both enjoyed excellent food and service. The restaurant has great character and I would definitely recommend if you visit Ballina or are close to this town.
We eventually headed back to the Mount Falcon Estate and the journey up to the hotel in the darkness adds to the whole splendor of this estate. We headed to the quaint bar, which was bustling with mostly our American friends. We joined in some conversation, exchanged some stories and raised that glass to my Dad. A perfect ending to a marvelous day.
The breakfast next morning was an expected treat and I thoroughly enjoyed my short stay at the Mount Falcon Estate. My friend had another fly fishing lesson on that morning so I packed and headed for home.
A tremendous and memorable couple of days in the West.
