Cork Coast & Kinsale

On the 7^th and 8^th of March 2020 I decided to visit Clonakilty, Kinsale and the Cork coastline.

My usual partner in crime had a busy calendar that weekend so I was joined by another long-time friend, Kieran.

Kieran is an experienced photographer working for the County GAA Board and sometimes on assignment for the Daily Mirror.

Kieran had no interest in landscape photography but I was determined to convert him. He is very knowledgeable about the techniques of photography so I was going to learn over the next two days. We are friends for the last 30 years so we were going to have some craic on the journey.

When I collected Kieran early on the morning of the 7^th he proceeded to load more photography equipment than I was expecting. We were going to experiment with his Canon camera collection.

As usual we headed south and the journey was trouble free. The motorway (M7/M8) to Cork City makes the journey seem very short and the main concern is keeping focused, traveling along a very similar road system.

When traveling out the other side of Cork City we head towards Clonakilty and arrive around 1pm as planned.

We drove through the town to get our bearings and locate the Clonakilty Hotel which is on Wolfe Tone Street. The town is very picturesque and we planned to walk and explore later.

Our first location of interest was Galley Head and the same named Lighthouse. We took the coast road out to the Head passing Duneen and Dunnycove Bays. We came across a lovely beach at Red Strand which is protected by Dirk Bay. Then onto Galley Head. This Head is quite remote and the road eventually comes to a farmyard with the unfortunate private property sign. While a little disappointed, we parked and walked out towards the sea to experience the angry sea that was surrounding the head. This was the first opportunity that Kieran would have to display his skills and camera arsenal.

Close to the entrance which was signposted “private” we noticed the ruins of the Dundeady Castle Walls. Dundeady Castle was built around 1215 on the site of an earlier O’Cowhig fort. It belonged to the Barry Roe clan. It was captured in 1642 by the Irish, soon afterwards captured by the Parliamentarian Colonel Myn, only to be quickly reoccupied by the Barrys. This is another example of the local community unable to make the most of their historical sites because of private ownership. This site could have some conservation work if not restoration, in order to highlight its history and original structure.

The castle was built on a headland known as Dundeady Island at the point where the headland connects to the mainland. It consisted of a tower house, an irregular shaped bawn with a square turret and a separate tower overlooking a cove.

Later during the 19th century the Galley Head Lighthouse was built on the southern tip of the headland. At present a private residence is situated within the walls of Dundeady Castle. So it cannot be visited. From the coastline close to the castle remains we could see Galley Lighthouse in the distance. It was a short walk from the ruins.

After a short discussion, we decided that we had come some distance and were determined to get photographs of the lighthouse. We would leisurely walk through the farmyard and plead complete ignorance and an inability to read signs if challenged.

We were being closely watched by farmyard canine occupant while we strolled through the farmyard. Thankfully he gave way and we walked unchallenged up the lane to the lighthouse. While leaving the farmyard we were presented with the remnants of the tower associated with the castle. What a historic ruin to have at the back of your farmyard.

As at previous lighthouses the lane towards Galley Lighthouse is managed by the Commissioners of Irish Lights. The gates are locked and no entry is significantly signposted. Well we had come this far, we navigated the gate and strolled up the stone wall lined road towards the lighthouse. When looking back from this lane you are looking from a height and can really appreciate the distinguishable headland and surrounding coastline. The sea is really battering the coastline around the head. As usual the lighthouse gates were locked but you could walk to side along a field and get a great view of this lighthouse and its remote location.

Galley Head Lighthouse rises an imposing 53m above the roaring Atlantic Ocean in the popular tourist haven of West Cork.

Galley Head Lighthouse was built in 1875, during the heyday of lighthouse building. When Galley Head was first constructed, it was the most powerful lighthouse light in the world. The lighthouse’s lantern, dome and 21-metre tower are still painted white, just as they were in the 19th century. The lighthouse was converted to electric operation in 1969 and automated in 1979. The lightkeepers at Galley Head would have witnessed the loss of the Lusitania in 1915 and sighted many British and German vessels during World War I and II. So for such a remote lighthouse it had a significant location. The location was worth the short walk and the ignorance towards the private land signs. We spent some time taking photographs of the lighthouse and the very active coastline. Kieran had ample time to inform me of the various camera modes which I would come to understand over the two- day trip.

We then headed towards Rosscarbery as we were heading towards Michael Collins’ birthplace. On this particular coastline we came across Long Beach and Owenahincha Beach, which we had to stop and take in for a moment. Owenahincha has a particular colourful history as in the 1970’s this was a major tourist destination for Cork City dwellers. In one particular report it was heralded as the “Vegas” of the south with hotels and caravan parks. The hotels have gone and there is limited choice on caravan parks compared to those times. There is a holiday apartment complex which stands out just over the beach. A forgotten location but there are two beautiful beaches in this area and the good old days may return someday. Before getting to Rosscarberry we headed across country to find Michael Collins’ original birthplace.

Michael Collins is a particular hero of mine and the history of our struggle for freedom in the early part of the 20^th Century. Michael Collins was an Irish revolutionary, soldier, and politician who was a leading figure in the early-20th-century Irish struggle for independence. He was Chairman of the Provisional Government of the Irish Free State from January 1922 until his assassination in August 1922.  Alternative histories are always interesting to contemplate.

He was the key architect and principal player of a fledging independent Ireland waiting to be rebuilt from the ashes after years of brutal warfare. He gained fame as a guerrilla warfare strategist, planning and directing many successful attacks on British forces, such as the “Bloody Sunday” assassinations of key British intelligence agents in November 1920.

It is fascinating to consider what journey Ireland would have taken under his stewardship had he not been cut down in his prime. He had charisma, intellect and bravery that has left a unique legacy among most Irish People especially with an interest in our most recent history. Clonakilty is particularly associated with Michael Collins with statues and the Michael Collins Museum.

Collins was born in Woodfield, Coolcraheen, near Clonakilty, in 1890 to Marianne Collins. This is a remote location with a restored cottage exterior, a thoughtful garden to remember this national hero and a beautiful bust of the man, Michael Collins. This truly is a place of reflection and worth a visit if in the Clonakilty area.

After discussing our recollections of Irish history we were actually in agreement that Michael Collins had made a significant contribution towards peace and freedom of this little country of ours. Dec and I rarely agree especially on one of these trips!

We then headed back towards Clonakilty as we were anxious to visit at least one more location before the weather turned nasty. All the ingredients were now present for a wet evening. We quickly headed south of Clonakilty towards Inchydoney. Inchydoney is a special location with a fabulous long beach. The weather was wet and windy our arrival at this location but the place was busy still with beach walkers most probably from the famous Inchydoney Island 4 Star Hotel.  Inchydoney is a small island off West Cork, Ireland, connected to the mainland by two causeways. It is a popular tourist destination. There are two beaches, one either side of the Virgin Mary headland. In Summer there is a lifeguard station on the headland for three months. We enjoyed our beach walk, a leisurely walk around the hotel and the remoteness of the location. The hotel has been constructed to blend into the outcrop of rocks. A busy location.

We then headed back to Clonakilty to check into The Clonakilty Hotel. We secured a parking space at the back of the hotel and transported all our equipment into our hotel room just before the heavens opened. As we enjoyed a very substantive fish and chips in the bar, the rain continued to come down. We got comfortable in the bar and waited for the Premier League match. The staff were very friendly and advised us on some locations to sample later in the evening. The hotel was built in the Celtic Tiger days of Ireland and has had to cut its cloth in order to survive. The leisure center seemed to be available to lease, hence was not open to hotel guests. There was however a very friendly feeling around the hotel and this location is very central which would help later as the rain continued to fall for the night.

We changed and headed out in the rain. The lively locations are not far from the Hotel so we worked our way towards “De Barra’s”, which had been recommended by a Cork blow in from our part of Ireland. At the corner of Ashe Street, we could hear music coming from “The Gin Bar” so we headed there to start the night. This is a very lively bar with live music and plenty of craic. We got our seats close to the bar and sampled a few gins. Must say the locals encourage and converse with strangers and we felt right at home. Kieran was even encouraged to sample gin when gin is not his normal drink. He was horrified at the price of my favorite gin, Hendrick’s which came with the mandatory cucumber slice. We had hoped to visit the famous Clonakilty Distillery which is housed in a very impressive building close to the town center. Any visitor should plan to book and visit time permitting. The reviews and the tasting experiences are well documented on social media.

Then to finish the night we headed across the road again to “De Barra’s”.

This is a busy bar with musical memorabilia and a renowned programme of live traditional Irish and folk music. In the last 30 years De Barra’s Folk Club has earned a musical reputation that has travelled far beyond the confines of its West Cork location. On the night in question we enjoyed the final set from a local folk band in the back bar. Normally folk music would not keep me awake, this band however were fully enjoying their gig and bringing the audience with them on a folk music experience with a twist. “De Barra’s” is well worth a visit for entertainment and a traditional location if ever staying in Clonakilty. We headed back to the Hotel after the usual late night snack, again in the rain.

We rose in the morning with no immediate effects of the previous night. The breakfast was excellent and we said our goodbyes to the staff, who were concerned that we had enjoyed Clonakilty on the previous evening. We assured them that we had.

Clonakilty is a picturesque town and we walked up the main street and around towards the square that includes Michael Collins’ Museum and a particular impressive statue of Michael Collins looking towards the Museum. The museum is based at 7 Emmet Square, Clonakilty, the only planned Georgian square outside of Dublin. Initially conceived by the Clonakilty Town Council in 2012, the building was restored and fitted in period decor. The museum explores Collins life but also looks at local revolutionary patriots such as Tadhg an Asna who led the local forces into battle in 1798 and the unrepentant Fenian, Jeremiah O’Donovan Rossa, both of whom influenced the young Collins. The square is impressive and does look out of place when you consider how far south this place is located. The square was particularly vivid on this bright Sunday Morning. We made the most of the sun and took some impressive photographs as the town was beginning to awaken.

We had reignited our historical memories of the hero, Michael Collins and Clonakilty has provided many reminders of his legacy and what may have been.

We decided to make our way towards Kinsale, our final destination of the day. Travelling back out along the coast in search of another signal house we came across another hidden beach which deserved some inspection. We had a chance encounter with a very nice guy, originally from the UK, who was collecting periwinkles. Periwinkles are widely distributed shore (littoral) snails, chiefly herbivorous, usually found on rocks, stones, or pilings between high- and low-tide marks. He had been busy with a number of buckets full from the mornings work. He explained however that because of the rough seas and storms, much of the seaweed had been dislodged and this had effected the periwinkle population. It was much harder to collect and business had therefore been impacted. I remembered as a child visiting Lahinch in Co Clare where my uncle used to buy a cone full of periwinkles and proceed to enjoy. He would encourage us to taste and enjoy but usually he had the chance to enjoy most as volunteers were very few.

We headed along the coast and towards Courtmacsherry. Courtmacsherry is a gorgeous fishing village nestled amongst the coves and beaches of the Seven Heads Peninsula. The beach is expansive and is a major attraction as witnessed by the holidays accommodation and hotels around the Seven Heads. Courtmacsherry is steeped in history and tradition. The nobility holidayed in the area and The Earl of Shannon, Henry Boyle, planted the trees that run from the village to the open sea as far as Woodpoint. The beautiful woodland areas that run right to the bathing coves at the waters edge are unique to the area and add to the charm of the village. Much of the local flora and fauna around the area serves as an attraction in itself for holiday makers and bird watchers. We did stop to walk the beach. We headed along the coast and came across Garettstown Beach. This is a fabulous stretch of beach and is very popular with wind surfers and other water sports. On the day in question there were many wind surfers displaying their sport and it provided an excellent opportunity to photograph this sport in extremely difficult conditions. Kieran was able to use all his cameras for various shots. Many had gathered in the car park to enjoy the spectacle. We spent a memorable time here watching and photographing the surfers and their skills. The angry sea provided the perfect backdrop for this sport.

Our final destination was Kinsale but we first wanted to visit the famous Head of Kinsale. The sun was still shining as we came to the roads end in front of the head. The Head is home to a famous private golf course, which unfortunately was closed at this time. We were unable to get onto the head itself. We headed back up to the high ground at the

Lusitania Museum & Old Head Signal Tower. From here we could get a good view of the Old Head Lighthouse in the distance and with Kieran’s longest lens we were able to capture the lighthouse in the midday sunlight.

The Old Head Signal Tower is just over 200 years old. It was built during the Napoleonic wars in response to the threat of a French invasion. The Museum within the tower contains memorabilia and information on the Lusitania disaster. A beautiful setting and view of the Old Head of Kinsale.

We headed into Kinsale which I was really looking forward to seeing again. Many years ago when I was in my twenties we had ventured around the south coast and ended up in Kinsale for a night. In those days apart from the unknown of whether the car would complete any journey never mind one so long (we were travelling in a 1985 Fiat 128), we ofcourse were camping, because of minimal finance resources – well most of the funds were for entertainment !!

That night in 1982 stands out particularly as we had planned well, pitching our tent high in a field outside the town, hidden from sight. We then proceeded to enjoy a significant number of pubs before ending up at the local disco. Let’s say we had a good night. We came out to the worst downpour of rain we had seen and headed for our tent, only to find our tent floating down the road towards us. We slept again in our car that night. Next morning we headed into town to the Blue Haven for breakfast and the use of their washroom for a wash and shave. The best night of our trip.

I have visited Kinsale since with my family so was looking forward to seeing if anything had changed. The town was bustling and the car park in the centre quite busy. We walked around the town and took some unique photographs of the coloured buildings in the famous back streets. The sun came out and the harbour came to life with the sun rays finding the perfect reflections.

We had to visit one famous licenced premises before we leave, The Spaniard. This famous pub and restaurant is on a sharp bend as you leave the town. We had visited this establishment in the eighties and since on various trips. The bar has a unique atmosphere and maybe the narrowest bar in the country because it is squeezed by the sharp bend in the road. We had to park high on the hill and walk back to enjoy the best sea food chowder washed down by our favourite beers. The place was buzzing with people sitting outside watching the world go by – exactly how I remember this place. A treat.

Finally we must leave Kinsale and head home, but we have one last stop, Charles Fort. 

We arrived as the heavens opened so we allowed some time for the weather to improve and as happens in Ireland quite often the sun came out in all its splendour.

As one of the country’s largest military installations, Charles Fort has been part of some of the most momentous events of Irish history. During the Williamite Wars, for example, it withstood a 13-day siege before it fell. Later, in the Civil War of the early 1920s, anti-Treaty forces on the retreat burned it out.

Charles Fort is a massive star-shaped structure of the late seventeenth century, well preserved despite its history. William Robinson, architect of the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, Dublin, is credited with designing it. Some of the outer walls are 16 metres high. The views from the ramparts looking out over Kinsale Harbour are spectacular.

This location is steeped in history and the location itself allows you to get lost in the wonder of how it was built and the many important events that took place in this fort over the centuries. You just walk around in utter amazement. Kieran and I agreed that this was the perfect place to end our journey and hopefully we have many photographs to view when back home. Another amazing short trip around Ireland.