Read About the Adventure below Images.
The Dingle and Ring of Kerry Adventure.
On 29th of June I and my pal, Declan (Dec) headed off to the Dingle Peninsula as early as possible to get the long journey over and to get snapping.
Our two day journey would also take in the Ring of Kerry culminating with a Saturday night stay in Killarney.
We had planned to stay at The Coastguard House @ Tigh T.P. close to Ballydavid on the Friday but we were disappointed by a call from a lady called Asia to explain that they had overbooked but had found us alternative B&B accommodation very close instead. She would take care of us when we arrived.
While the accommodation was not our main priority for this adventure it still felt that it was a bad omen before our journey, as the reviews for The Coastguard House were quite good and we had been looking forward to our short stay.
Anyway we made our way to Kerry and after four hours we were on the Dingle Peninsula.
We had been advised to see the Maharees, which was just north of Castlegregory. We were told to drive to the end of the head just past the Water Sports Centre to see an amazing beach.
The Maharees duly obliged and we headed along sand covered roads to find an amazing dune complex and an amazing beach coastline. Well worth a visit.
We then headed towards Dingle over the Conor Pass. The Conor Pass is the highest mountain pass in Ireland and is a daunting drive when you meet oncoming traffic in some very tight places. The scenery however was breath taking on our journey through this pass. The Conor Pass brings you straight into Dingle.
We arrived in Dingle early so we decided to continue west towards Slea Head (I had never been that direction before).
This journey was probably a highlight of this trip.
The drive to Slea Head, around Mount Eagle was amazing. The weather was ideal, sunny and the scenery was epic. We came across so many reminders of Star Wars, tee shirts, stone bee hives etc, it definitely felt like we were on another planet and Hans Solo was going to appear at any moment. The viewing points on Slea Head provided the perfect view of the Atlantic Sea with the very impressive Blasket Islands in the background. We climbed every vantage point to get the clearest photograph. This was heaven.
We passed through Dunquin and then towards Clogher Head (which reminds us of the same named head at home in Louth).
Clogher Head finally reveals another gem, Clogher Beach. This beach seems out of place against the obvious force of the Atlantic on this exposed coastline. The road to this beach is very narrow but we are pleasantly surprised by the car park next to the beach. Some camper vans have already set up for the night. This beach had to provide the most amazing sunrise which would easily have made up for any lack of facilities.
We had to stop to take it all in. We did return that evening with my drone and sent it up to capture the approaching sunset.
Finally evening was coming upon us and we decided to find Ballydavid and our unknown lodgings for the night.
After working out the Irish Signs and driving past The Coastguard House twice, we went looking for our contact, Asia.
Asia was very friendly and apologetic about overbooking us. She guaranteed that the B&B that she had organized would satisfy all our requirements (we actually didn’t need a lot).
We drove for about 4 kilmetres and came across The Old Pier Guesthouse.
Christine and Páid were very welcoming and showed us to their best room, overlooking the sea and the impressive Three Sisters (mountain range). The three mountains seem to rest in the Atlantic but provide a great backdrop to the rugged coastline on the mainland.
We were advised by Asia to return to the Coastguard House for a meal as the B&B only provided breakfast.
We duly obliged , returned and were directed to a table on the side of the only road which passes the Coastguard. This was a treat as all guests were doing the same. The evening was beautiful and the tables overlooked the small harbour and beach. We were amazed by the number of people arriving for a late evening swim. At one point the activity on the beach resembled a busy sunny afternoon anywhere else, and cars were passing our table frequently.
The reviews for the food at the Coastguard were very good so expectations were high.
We decided to start with the famous chowder but were a little put off by the waitress who didn’t like fish herself and the information that the chowder was water based rather than cream based, which we were expecting.
However when the chowder came it was amazing, full of flavours. An amazing starter, the main course would be great and it was. Cod and chips, no frills but another tasty meal. All was washed down by a few pints of lager, which completed the long day.
Afterwards we decided to head back to Clogher beach to release my Yuneec Drone to take some video footage of the late evening. Some people in camper vans had settled in for the evening and were wondering what two middle aged men were doing wandering across the head with drone at the ready. It was a beautiful evening and the whole scene of the beach, rocky shoreline and powerful sea was magical.
We headed back to the Old Pier Guesthouse after a long but fruitful day to witness a majestic sunset against the Three Sisters and Ballydavid Head.
Next morning we rose early to a warm greeting from Páid who was on duty in the Breakfast room. Páid is a great character and his tee shirt said it all “May the Fleadh be with you”, another reference to the famous film franchise.
The breakfast room was full of every nationality but Páid was in control of all requirements. “ Breakfast is cooked to order so may take some time “.
We ordered two full Irish Breakfasts.
It was worth the short wait as the “Full Irish” was impressive and very tasty. There was an audible wow in many languages when Páid carried the plates to our table.
After breakfast we packed our van again and thanked our hosts for the experience of staying at the Old Head Guesthouse.
We informed them that we planned to do the Ring of Kerry that day , or a part of same and were staying the night in Kilarney.
Páid advised that the Ring of Kerry would be a nightmare traffic wise (height of tourist season) and suggested that we take the Ballaghisheen Pass which starts outside Killorglin. This would bring us across the peninsula towards Waterville and we could then work our way towards Kenmare (which was on our list to see).
We therefore headed back to Dingle. Spent a little time there at the port. The town was very busy with tourists. We then headed along the coast encountering some amazing scenery. This was also a beautiful sunny day. Inch Beach and Strand was amazing and full of activity. Every parking lot was taken at the entrance to the beach. One of the most impressive beaches in Ireland and we will return there when the tourists have gone home.
We headed towards Castlemaine and then to Killorglin. Killorglin is an impressive town and you can see the influence of the Healy-Rae’s (political dynasty) in the roads and industry on entering this town. Another one to visit again. We followed the signs to Glencar and eventually drove into the Pass itself. The Ballaghisheen Pass is amazing and the scenery is breath taking. You just have to slow down to take it all in, as did every mode of transport on this pass. We were been overtaken by cyclists when enjoying our many stops on this journey.
We eventually came back to reality and entered the area of Waterville. As golfers we were anxious to see the golf club so we parked just outside the golf clubhouse at the beach. We parked beside or close to a Sailboat, which looked a little extraordinary. On closer inspection the Sailboat was in fact grounded on the sand and had been there for a while. A great photo opportunity but very unfortunate for the owner. The beach was Inny Strand and this was another amazing stretch of beach.
We headed into the clubhouse for a coffee. There was a great viewing point on the first floor just off the restaurant. The golf course looked amazing as if it had been in situ since the start of time. We were welcomed which is unusual in a lot of golf clubs.
I had visited Derrynane Beach years ago after being advised to by a dear friend and wanted to visit again. Getting into the beach was fun with traffic and quite a few campers. The weather was terrific and everyone was planning a visit to the beach today. We eventually got to Keatings Bar, stopped for a pint and walked the rest of way to the idyllic beaches of Derrynane. Derrynane beach is a hidden gem and well worth the hassle of getting there.
We headed towards Kenmare passing through Sneem. This is a beautiful drive. Kenmare is one of my favorite places as there is a vibrant feeling to the town because of the constant stream of tourists. This does not seem to upset the normal life of the locals.
The World Cup was taking place that weekend and we stopped at a local bar to watch France and enjoy another bowl of chowder and brown bread. This time it was cream based but very tasty.
After a short walk around the town and taking in the atmosphere of Kenmare we headed for Killarney. We would take the scenic route up through the mountains, through Moll’s Gap, stopping at Ladie’s View before entering Killarney National Park. This drive is both exhilarating and wondrous as the various lakes appear. The drive was particularly exciting on this day because the weather was turning and I had to concentrate on the more hazardous and narrow points on the road.
We eventually entered Killarney passing Muckross Lake and the impressive entrance to Muckross House. On entering the town itself everything changes as you pass hotel after hotel and the impression that commercialism starts here.
We were staying in the Killarney Court Hotel which we expected to be cheap and cheerful. It was both and a little disappointing in that customer care was not that important. The hotel needed an upgrade and this was particularly evident in the breakfast room next morning (where we had to pay for our breakfast). The food in the bar area was very ordinary also but this was a good location to visit the busy town of Killarney on a Saturday night.
We were not disappointed as the town was full of foreign tourists and the hospitality sector in Killarney know exactly what is required – Irish music, dance and craic. Every live music establishment provides exactly that to varying degrees of competency. Dec who enjoys his music was quite critical of some of the performers which is “not like him”. We did however enjoy our night in Killarney and stayed out later than planned as Dec found a bar with “good music”. You can always be sure of an entertaining night in Killarney.
Next morning we rose early, and headed to see Ross Castle on the outskirts of the town. This is a good tourist attraction because of its closeness to the town and its magical setting on Lough Leane. The 15th Century Castle is the subject of numerous historical myths, including that of a ghost who still makes appearances at the castle.
Sadly we needed to head home after our two day trip. We did fit one more stop in on the way home, The Rock of Cashel, another major tourist attraction in County Tipperary. The Rock of Cashel is an ancient royal site of the kings of Munster and first attained importance as a fortress. Its origins as a centre of power go back to the 4th or 5th centuries. Two of the most famous people of Irish legend and history are associated with the Rock of Cashel. They are St. Patrick whom according to legend, arrived in Cashel in AD 432 and baptized King Aengus who became Ireland’s first Christian ruler. The second was Brian Boru, he was crowned High King here in 990. He is the only king who was able to unite all of Ireland under one ruler for any significant period of time.
A beautiful evening for some photographs at the rock. The location is amazing as from the fortress you are see for miles in every direction. I am sure it was a formidable fortress to those planning any attack.
Hope you enjoy my favorite photographs from an amazing two day trip.
– RI
