On 8th February 2019 I decided to head to County Wexford with the ultimate aim of taking some photographs of Hook Head Lighthouse. The weather forecast was predicting a severe storm on the south coast so I was hoping for some exciting stormy sea scenes. I would not be disappointed.
I headed down the N11 and took the scenic route through Wicklow and down the coast. It was a bright day and the coastline was very impressive and calming.
Nearly two years previously after the death of my father, I and my son, David, had taken a few days off together. We headed to Wexford to explore the fit out of a VW Camper van with Happy Campers and travel a little around the county. Sometimes you have to take a little time out to spend time with those that are important in your life.
We were pleasantly surprised by the coastline and in particular the Hook Head Peninsula. We had an enjoyable few days. We had spent a wonderful evening at the lighthouse and took the opportunity to fly our new toy, a Yuneec drone, around the whole lighthouse structure. The video taken shows the remote nature of this peninsula and the elegance of the fortified lighthouse. We had traveled back the next morning to enjoy a guided tour of the lighthouse and learn its impressive history. This location is definitely worth a visit.
I was determined therefore to get back down to explore the area further and to head a little west hopefully finishing around the Tramore area.
Back to the journey, I headed out to Wicklow Head and its impressive Lighthouse. You can actually stay in the original octagonal structure.The Lighthouse has 6 octagonal rooms carefully constructed in the void that existed within the tower when it was first taken on by Irish Landmark. The arched windows set into walls which are a meter or more thick offer stunning views out to the Irish Sea and the surrounding countryside. All making this property a most unique place to stay.
I have visited a number of Lighthouses recently that have unique accommodation available. If you enjoy the seascape and and the opportunity to stay in a unique location, this has to be considered. I plan to stay in a number over the next few years being totally fascinated by their location and history.
Wicklow Head is worth a visit. All seemed calm and perfect while traveling down the east coast.
I headed back onto the N11 towards Enniscorthy. We had stayed there two years ago. Enniscorthy is the second largest town in Wexford. Right in the centre of the town you will find Enniscorthy Castle built in the 16th Century. A very impressive building which now houses a museum. Eventhough it is surrounded by town centre shops and businesses it still stands apart and is impressively illuminated after dark.
I was staying in Kilmore Quay for the night so kept heading around Wexford Town and towards the south coast. Evening was closing in and I was determined to be on Hook Head at sunset.
I was staying at the Coast Kilmore Quay and pulled into the hotel around 5.30pm. The cost of the stay was very reasonable so I was not expecting much. The Hotel is more a Motel as the rooms are adjacent to the hotel where you can park in front of your room. I was however pleasantly surprised as the room was beautifully furnished and had a perfect work area which I could use later. The Hotel staff were friendly, nothing was a problem and the food fantastic. A real hidden gem.
I quickly unpacked, got all my camera gear ready and headed along the coast through Kilmore Quay. February, probably is the worst time to visit this village as the weather brings strong winds and an aggressive sea. Just what I was looking for !
The sand has been blown onto the roads and I must pass through the most amazing Wind Farm shortly after leaving Kilmore Quay. The road seems to bring you towards some of the large wind structures before forcing you to the left or right at the last moment. I will investigate much more in the morning.
I travel towards Saltmills a short cut towards Hook Head and quickly onto the Head itself. There is a beautiful bridge on this road with the remnants of a beached boat. While driving down the peninsula you can really feel the sea coming towards you on both sides.
The storm has taken control of the sea and the prevailing winds. Even the formidable Loftus Hall seems dominated by the storm around it.
Loftus Hall is a large mansion house situated on the Hook peninsula. It is located on the right hand side as you drive towards Hook Lighthouse on the tip of the Hook Peninsula. The first castle was built on the site in 1170 by the Norman Knight, Raymond Les Gros who changed his surname to Redmond to adopt an Irish identity.
The Redmond family built the Hall in 1350 during the time of the Black Death to replace the castle. It is reported that the Hall is haunted and it certainly has the look of a haunted location. It is opened to the public and has a renowned walled garden. Unfortunately not open in February and tonight was not a night to visit any place with such a reputation.
As you pass the Hall the Lighthouse becomes more visible. The Lighthouse at this stage seems to be literally at the end of Ireland.
The sea is now raging on each side of the peninsula as I approach the final 500 metres to the lighthouse although the light is still holding. The final stretch brings you in close contact to the sea and some rocky inlets. Finally the road to the lighthouse brings you right up to the peninsula end and you can look across at the actual lighthouse which is on your left. I quickly exited the jeep to take some photographs of the lighthouse itself before concentrating on the sea and the impending sunset.
You are now quite close to the lighthouse and you cannot but be struck by the marvel and structure of the oldest operational lighthouse in the world. Two years previously I had taken the lighthouse tour with my son. The tour really explains the history behind the Commissioner of Irish Lights and the historical progression from the use of fossil fuels to the modern automated led systems. This tour started my fascination with the lighthouses throughout Ireland as you will see from my travels. Hook Lighthouse became fully automated in 1996, after which it no longer needed resident keepers.
Now back to the night in question. I was able to get some good photographs before the light started to fade. There were three other cars parked close to the end of the peninsula and what seemed like an abandoned camper van. I was not the only one who had left their sanity safely inland.
All seemed to be happy to witness the impending sunset from the comfort of their vehicles. At this point the storm was raging and attacking the rocky coastline around the peninsula. White foam was raining down on the rocks in front of us. The atmosphere was apocalyptic but the conditions were amazing. I drove the jeep as close to the peninsula end as possible and climbed across the rocks to get the best location while the light was moving to sunset. My movement seemed to give bravery to two young ladies who exited their cars and joined me on the rocks with their mobile phones. We were being showered now by the foam and I knew my camera lens would need constant attention.
While some shots were ruined by the showers of foam I got some action filled shots. On returning to the jeep, it was covered in foam and the area around the road looked like a scene from the ski slopes.
It was hard to move away but the storm was getting stronger so I headed about 500 meters back up the peninsula to a stone building where there was some cover but also provided the perfect picture of the lighthouse being attacked from all sides. Some people continued to stay at the peninsula end.
This had been an amazing night and experience. it was now getting dark.
I headed back to the Coast Kilmore Quay, for an amazing Fish and Chip meal. Some other souls had braved the weather to enjoy the very good value that this hotel provides. I retired to my cosy room to review the many photographs taken and enjoy the fruits of such an amazing evening.
I got up early, had a freshly made breakfast, which I can only describe as one of my best hotel breakfasts. The Coast Kilmore Quay is definitely worth a visit. The staff were very friendly and kindly forwarded a jacket I left behind when leaving.
Anyway back to my travels and I was anxious to get in as much as possible before heading home later in the day. I firstly had a short walk around Kilmore Quay which I would say is much busier in the summer months. There is a busy fishing port which leads to well prepared walkways around the sand dunes. The sand dunes shelter a very impressive beach. A busy village with many attractions. I head away towards New Ross along the coast. I encounter the wind farm again and park close to a turbine to witness the constant swirl which emanates from each one. I can understand why no one really wants to live beside or close to one but I suppose there has to be a certain price for clean energy. Driving around this wind farm still remains an unusual experience.
I head towards Wellingtonbridge. This is a busy village with an exposed historical railway station which seems to stand alone or have been left behind. The village was on the Limerick – Rosslare railway line. Wellingtonbridge Railway Station, which was formerly an important point for the loading of sugar beat opened on 1 August 1906 and closed on 18 September 2010.
I then head towards Duncannon on the coast towards New Ross. Primarily a fishing village it now relies heavily on tourism. The Duncannon Fort is at the center of village activity and Duncannon beach is a mile long golden beach, two great attractions. My favorite attraction is ofcourse the Duncannon Lighthouse which you pass when heading north out of the village, set in a hill overlooking the sea.
The next place of interest is Arthurstown, a little further along the coastline. This village is located along the R733 regional road on the eastern shore of the Waterford Harbor estuary, where The Three Sisters flow into the sea. This village is set in a beautiful Bay and is very picturesque.
On heading towards New Ross I came across Dunbrody Abbey, a formidable building with an adjacent Visitor Center. Dunbrody Abbey was founded in 1170 on the instructions of Strongbow, by Herve de Montmorency (his uncle), after the Norman invasion of Ireland. It was completed circa 1220, but additions may have continued for some time. The Abbey is receiving significant maintenance and restoration. Well worth a visit.
I head towards New Ross and will call into the John F Kennedy Arboretum on the way. An Arboretum is a botanical garden devoted to trees .The John F. Kennedy Arboretum on the Hook Head Peninsula at New Ross, County Wexford, Ireland, is a park under public administration. On 252 hectares there are approximately 4,500 species of trees and shrubs and is dedicated to the memory of John Fitzgerald Kennedy, President of the United States from 1960 to 1963,
The landscape leading to this attraction is lush and stately. The roads leading to the Arboretum are wide and perfectly laid in tarmac. You become aware that this attraction will be impressive and a recollection of the impact that John F Kennedy had on the world of his time. You eventually come across the entrance, and after paying the small fee of €5 , you can drive the short distance to the car park and get the first impression of the perfectly manicured park lands. The ideal place for a reflective ramble, the park features woodland walks, a playground, tree houses and a lake with ducks and fish.
The weather improved on entering the park and allowed me a short time to get my bearings and investigate the various walks around the large expanse of forestry. I am joined by the occasional jogger or enthusiastic walker, the perfect setting for such activities. This is an attraction well worth visiting if in this area of the country.
The Kennedy family have been a fascination for most Irish people, but in particular John F Kennedy, especially as he visited Ireland during his Presidency. There is also a deep fascination with Jacqueline Kennedy. I recently enjoyed a documentary on her life, while she had to deal with sorrow, she was a particularly strong and beautiful woman.
The Visitor Center is very thought provoking with its photographs and audio visual show. The photographs in particular depicted the very important moments in John F Kennedy’s Presidential life including the famous visit to Ireland in June 1963. “Imagine the most powerful man in the world is coming to your house for tea. What – on earth – do you cook?” This seemingly is the quote from Mary Kennedy Ryan (cousin of John F Kennedy) before his visit. Home made salmon sandwiches were produced on the day. You will get lost in the history of this man and the moments in history depicted come alive before you. Life can be very short but some make such an impact that the length of their stay does not matter.
I could imagine that this attraction is beautiful in the summer months but my visit in February allowed me the solitude to take it all in. A wonderful experience and a must visit location.
I eventually headed towards New Ross. New Ross is located on the banks of the river Barrow. One of the town’s attractions is The Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience. The Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience is a popular historical attraction. Centered on an authentic reproduction of an 1840s emigrant vessel, the attraction provides a fascinating interpretation of the famine emigrant experience.
New Ross provides the best crossing of the river to head towards Waterford and eventually towards my last place to visit, Tramore. I have great memories of Tramore as I had spent a few weeks after leaving school enjoying this seaside town while based in the barracks in Waterford City. I had been a member of the reserve army (FCA or more affectionately known as the “Free Clothes Association”) As one of the officers was a family friend, I had been assigned to bar duties in the officers mess. This was a particularly envious job as you had to work for two days and had the third day off. The third day was spent in Tramore with my fellow bar personnel. The seaside resort was in full swing in July 1979 and it was a major attraction for any young man as many families were holidaying in the caravan parks or hotels. You were sure to meet young ladies at the amusement arcades or the discos. All innocent fun.
On driving into Tramore the town is still firmly based around the strand and the coastline east and west. The arcades may be gone and the town is a little jaded especially after the banking crash, but there is still the fantastic strand with many activities going on. Even in the month of February there are plenty of people around and the restaurants are busy. The town has suffered however and does need to reinvent itself. The park and lake area adjacent to the strand has fallen into decay or will need comprehensive work before the season commences.
Before leaving the area I did travel west along the coast to see “The Metal Man”. The Metal Man stands on one of three pillars near Newtown Cove, the maritime beacons were constructed through Lloyds of London at the behest of the Admiralty after the tragic loss of 360 lives after HMS Seahorse sank after becoming grounded at Brownstown Head in bad weather, this tragedy happened in 1816.
After fitting as much as possible into this two day trip I headed home with many memories and much to write.
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