First Adventure
First Adventure in VW Camper
Having always enjoyed taking photographs of scenery and places I decided to take it more seriously. Hence the investment in a Camper Van to travel as much as possible to follow this passion.
This van will be used to carry equipment and luggage more than any camping or camping park activities. My friends already have a wager that I will not spend a night in the camper.
On 23rd of February 2018 I set off for the first adventure. I had decided on the first journey to the Counties of Sligo and Donegal for the weekend. I was accompanied by one of my oldest pals , Declan, who having retired has an interest in photography also.
We headed off from base across the country and when coming close to Sligo Town, paused to visit Glencar Waterfall. I had visited this beautiful location on two previous visits to Sligo and was anxious to return and take some photographs of this amazing location. It is a thought provoking location. Dec quickly became fascinated with the location as we drove west along the lake towards the waterfall.
This waterfall served as an inspiration to William Butler Yeats and features in his poem “The Stolen Child” –
‘Where the wandering water gushes From the hills above Glen-Car, In pools among the rushes That scarce could bathe a star’
Glencar Lake straddles the border between Sligo and Leitrim. It is a beautiful drive around the lake to the carpark beside the waterfall. The waterfall itself is a short walk on a paved path which is suitable for all types of users.
The Waterfall is a haven of tranquillity. The last time I visited the waterfall I was with my daughter, Sarah, who was visiting her cousin in Sligo. I decided to show her the lake and the waterfall which is impressively overlooked by Benbulben, a large flat-topped rock formation, part of the Dartry Mountains. We had travelled late on a summer evening and arrived at the waterfall with sunset fast approaching. We had taken the magical walk to the waterfall. Sarah was sure this area was the location of an historic Fairy Kingdom, such was the magical nature of the whole location on that night. I had to agree that night as something spellbinding seemed to embrace the location as we drove from the car park. We had enjoyed one of those father child moments which would come back to the forefront in many memories when the lake came into sight.
Benbulben itself is an impressive rock formation in that it is unusual and on a summer day Benbulben comes to life in the reflection of Glencar Lake. We spent more time than planned stopping at various locations around the lake. The location was captivating especially as the sun seemed to break out for just that hour and allow some favorite photographs, especially the Sligo Angler’s boat.
We eventually and reluctantly headed for Mullaghmore in the north of County Sligo.
We arrived shortly after 7pm and booked into The Pier House Hotel literally at the end of the Pier. What this hotel does not have in luxury is more than compensated for in its location and the spectacular breakfast views out towards the sea, beaches and mountains.
The hotel was comfortable and the reception did quickly sort out the bed arrangement as we initially had one double bed in the first room allocated.
I had read many good reports about “Eithna’s by the Sea” and so we planned to dine there after taking in some atmosphere in the hotel bar.
We made our way across to “Eithna’s by the Sea” a seafood restaurant directly across the road from the hotel. If in this area you have to visit this restaurant. The reviews I had read beforehand were very good but our experience on the night was excellent.
The Seafood curry was an amazing experience and full of incredible tastes. My friend enjoyed one of the best Cod meals he had ever had. Again the tastes and sauces were to die for. The restaurant was very quiet on the night and the lady herself came out to welcome and educate the small number of guests. It was a wonderful night of food and wine.
We returned to the hotel bar for a night cap and some good conversation.
Next morning we enjoyed a healthy breakfast while viewing the amazing scenery from the breakfast room. It was a bright morning so we walked around the village and the harbour area. The scenery around the village is breath taking and colourful. The fishing boats and the lobster pots provide plenty of colour for the first photographs of the day.
We headed out around Mullaghmore Head as I had a particular ambition to photograph Classiebawn Castle.
Mullaghmore head was a short drive but impressive as it was being attacked on all sides by the Atlantic waves.
The location of this castle is unique and it is steeped in history and mystery. The castle is well known because of its association with Lord Mountbatten (an uncle of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh), who was murdered by the Provisional IRA in 1979. He, his grandson and two others were assassinated by a bomb hidden aboard his fishing boat.
Classiebawn Castle was used as a barracks for the Free State during the Irish Rebellion. They flew their flag there which protected the Castle from damage. In 1916 the Castle was emptied of all furniture by Lord Mount Temple and remained as such until 1950. When the Irish Rebellion ended, the Castle was handed back intact to Lord Mount Temple who had been a popular landlord.
The Castle and approximately 3000 acres are now owned privately. The Castle itself stands out over the spectacular coastline but is overshadowed by Benbulben in the background if viewed from the right angle.
The Castle and Lord Mountbatten’s tragic death have spawned haunting stories around this castle. One legend has it that Lord Mountbatten’s ghost is still roaming the halls, unable to find peace as a result of his violent and sudden death.
It is a stunning location and one that stands out when you have an interest in photography.
After spending too much time on Mullaghmore Head we headed towards County Donegal, for our second adventure of the weekend.
We headed through Bundoran and Donegal Town on a beautiful Saturday morning. We then headed north towards Glenties and Gweedore before travelling past Mount Errigal. Mount Errigal is a 751 metre mountain not far from Gweedore. It is an imposing mountain as it seems to stand alone in this area. However it is the most southern, steepest and the highest of the mountain chain called the “Seven Sisters” by locals. The mountain is an impressive backdrop to any photograph but especially on this fine morning.
We then headed towards are base for the night Beach Hotel in Downings. We arrived at about lunch time and were met by the owner Charlie McClafferty who made us very welcome and provided a very comfortable position in the hotel bar for lunch followed by live rugby. On that day Ireland beat Wales and Scotland beat England so all were very happy in the bar that evening.
Beach Hotel is a very modern hotel literally on the beach and amazingly friendly. Nothing was a problem. It is family run and the guest is always king. Charlie tended the open roaring fire in the bar as if his life depended on it. He was extremely experienced in the art of adding coal when it looked like there was no room left and when the wall of burning coal was about to fall out. We actually had to move towards the bar to avoid the direct heat, however the locals obviously expecting this roaring fire were happy to sit as close as possible. We had a very enjoyable night here and became part of the community speaking with a lot of the locals.
We eventually retired to bed much later than planned.
After a substantial and tasty breakfast we walked through the carpark, then through the caravan park and onto the beach at Downings. The beach is expansive and perfect for a head clearing walk. The town seemed to be in its usual Sunday morning state, asleep. To be fair the locals seemed to enjoy the locals bars including the Beach Hotel bar so some recovery was needed. We
drove to the local pier to view the town and the beach in all its glory.
The town looks down onto Rosapenna Hotel and Golf Resort so there are some amazing activities in the area, even though the whole area seems light years away the general world and from stress. This area seems to work at its own pace.
We had planned to visit Fanad Lighthouse on the Sunday morning but the receptionist told us about the local “Murder Hole” at the end of Melmore Head which we were advised to visit for some amazing photo opportunities.
We decided therefore to head to Melmore Head, and an interesting journey on very narrow roads passing more mobile home parks than I have ever seen. The morning was fresh but frosty and as we headed towards our destination we came across some steep inclines in the road. At one incline it was so steep and glazed with frost and ice that Declan was sent walking ahead to ensure the road was not as dangerous as viewed from the van. He really appreciated the morning walk !!
Eventually we came to end of the road, as advised, at the gate with the “Beware of Bull” sign. Dec was quite concerned about the bull but was quick to comment that he could run quicker than me. We were advised to keep an eye out for this bull and take all precautions if we came across this animal. This gave me the ideal opportunity to frighten the life out of my friend on the return journey from the coastline by pretending the bull was right behind us. Let me just say he was at least 100 metres ahead of me running as fast as possible before I could assure him of my little joke. He is a brave friend but also fast on his feet.
We were told to walk for approximately two miles across fields until we came to the seascape. This was a pleasant walk across a dramatic landscape. There was a steep incline on the last field before the seascape came into view
Unfortunately we could not find the exact location of the sea cave but the coastline which we found was dramatic and totally isolated. We were literally at the end of Ireland with no life in sight, except for some donkeys we came across on the expedition. The donkeys looked a little bemused and incredulous that we were walking past them on this cold morning.
We took some amazing photographs of this area and fulfilled about 5000 steps of our usual daily target.
We then headed to Fanad Lighthouse arriving just before the tourist buses arrived. As with most lighthouses you can see them from a far when approaching the general area, however Fanad Lighthouse is particularly prominent as you approach it. It maybe the clear and definite white paint used on the building complex but most probably the dramatic location. Fanad Lighthouse is situated in a beautiful location where it seems to sit out in the sea. The Lighthouse building is open to overnight guests with three guest areas and you could only imagine the dramatic experiences on a windy or storm active night.
We enjoyed a tour of the lighthouse by a local lady who was very informative about the use and history of this lighthouse.
I had visited Hook Head Lighthouse with my son during 2017 and I had developed a real interest in the Commissioners of Irish Lights and the history of the various lighthouses around the coast of Ireland. When you consider the protection that these lighthouses provided to the ships approaching or leaving Ireland over the last few centuries. It is also fascinating how these lighthouses were maintained and how technology has changed the way the remaining working lighthouses are used now.
Fanad Lighthouse is an impressive lighthouse based on its images alone. The original building was commissioned following the Saldanha wreck. Building work commenced in 1815 and was completed in 2 years by the Commissioners of the Ballast Board. It is built of granite which was sent from the North Wall , Dublin, ready prepared. The building was designed by the corporation’s inspector Mr George Halpin and the building work was overseen by a Mr.Carpenter of Dublin and cost £2,000. The light was first lit on St. Patrick’s day 17th March 1817.
This location is a photographer’s dream and we were able to get some great shots from here. You can take photographs from the old look out building adjacent to the lighthouse which gives the true perspective of the location of this fabulous lighthouse.
It was then time to head south to pick up the best route to the east coast. We did take in a few locations along the Lough Swilly drive including Portsalon with its beach and dramatic golf course which follows the coastline shot by shot. It was hard to finally leave this area and you can see how many in Northern Ireland come over and enjoy their holiday homes in these dramatic locations.
Unfortunately all good things must come to an end and we had to head home but we spent the last few hours of our journey going over the great experiences and discussing our next visit to Sligo / Donegal.
